Help
If you spot any mistakes or can provide any info that will make the descriptions better please let me know (stp@synergynet.co.uk).
Printing
The PDF version was designed for printing but you need Adobe Acrobat Reader installed on your computer. It’s four pages and 364 kb so will take a couple of minutes to download on a normal phone connection.
Save trees when printing. Please either reuse paper (use blank sides of that used) or print on both sides of recycled paper.
Why this Guide?
1. The new A55 makes getting to Gogarth much quicker and so probably more popular.
2. The current Gogarth guide is out of print.
3. Printed bits of paper are easier to carry up routes than a heavy hardback book.
Grading
Because this guide is not attempting to make a profit there is no incentive to overgrade to sell more copies. Therefore the grades may feel slightly tougher than those in more modern guides.
Getting There
Take the A55 across Anglesey to Holyhead. Follow signs first for the Town Centre, then brown tourist signs for South Stack. Go past the RSPB to park at the cafe, or in one of the two car parks further up.
From the penultimate car park a surfaced road (blocked to vehicles by a gate) goes R . Follow this to just before a Radar Station and the get on the main gravel track just to the R. After some rocks and more radar type stuff on the L the path splits. The RH fork goes past the left side of Holyhead Mountain crags. (If you reach these you´ve gone to far and need to cut down to the L.) The LH fork leads down to Upper Tier. After 3 - 400 yards a decent gully is reached which leads to a narrow path below the routes. It's normal to gear up just before the gully and leave rucksacks etc. amongst the boulders.
Finding the Routes
The path along the bottom is not for the faint hearted and includes a short rock traverse about half way along. If you´re having problems finding where you are look for the following prominent features. A short way along the path is the twin left slanting cracks of Strike. The detached pinnacle of Shag Rock further along is also obvious. Beyond the rock traverse (above is Times Square) the thin crack and brushed wall of the The Strand also stands out. For The Gauntlet and beyond go past the huge yellow scar/groove in the middle of the LH side of the cliff.
All routes are (hopefully) listed here but only the worthwhile ones described.
Warnings
1. Above the routes are steep grassy slopes— take care especially if wet.
2. Fixed gear like pegs corrode quickly in the sea air. Examine and decide for yourself how safe these are. The bit you can´t see may be more corroded that parts you can. Some may be missing altogether.
3. Never depend on any guidebook for your safety. Routes change, errors in grades and descriptions are not uncommon. An alert and thinking mind is far more reliable.
Weather
The crag gets shade in the morning, sun in the afternoon and dries quickly after rain (often in a few hours). Sea mists and humidity are the biggest problems. It´s also often be sheltered despite strong winds. Weather forecasts can be found for www.ukclimbing.com. To check the weather at South Stack now call the café there: 01407 762181
|
Nomad VS
Troggs Way HVS 5a
Psychocandy 60 feet E6
A thin and bold pitch taking the obvious thin crack rightwards up the cleaned wall. Start by scrambling up to a peg belay at the foot of the obvious slabby corner left of the decent gully.
1 60' 6c Climb the corner for a few metres then move right to the crack. Follow this past two pegs to finish on the arête.
C Smith 1986
Dirtigo 160 feet VS
Not as bad as the name suggests, allegedly. Start as for Psychocandy.
1 110' 4c. Climb the corner skirting slightly leftwards around the bulge. Continue up to a grassy ledge with peg belays.
2 50' 4a. From the belay traverse R and follow a chimney to the top.
M Yates, J Jordan 1966.
Variation
2a 50' 4c Climb the slab up and leftwards to finish.
Acid HVS
Dropout E2 5b
The Rift 190 feet VS
Good if you like chimneys. Start at a chockstone belay beneath the RH side of the gigantic flake.
1 120' 4c Climb the chimney until it is possible to escape to a small ledge on the left. Shuffle to the edge of the flake then climb up and left to a spike belay on top of the flake itself.
2 15' A short scramble behind the stance leads to a second spike belay in a small recess.
3 55' 4c The crack behind the belay.
C E Davies, A Cowburn 1966.
Strike 190 feet E3**
Takes the obvious twin diagonal cracks up the RH side of the front face of the gigantic flake. Start beneath the cracks.
1 120'. 6a Move up little and make a hard move left to get established on the line. A good rest after 6 metres is followed by a baffling sequence to enter the slabby groove above. Follow this, and then the wide crack on the R to belay on the top of the flake.
2 70' 4c Gain the crack above and follow this to finish as for the Rift.
R Edwards, E Fry (5 pts), FFA P Gomersall, S Foster 1976.
Strike Direct 100 feet E6
A vicious and scary direct start up the faint arête, protected by small wires. Start down and L of the original start.
1 100´ 6c Boulder out the arête to join Strike at the good resting place just below the slabby groove.
J M Redhead 1982.
Between Strike and the next slabby corner is and impressive steep wall, containing two difficult, but contrasting routes.
Blackleg 155 feet E6 *
A vague R trending depression provides the line of this serious pitch. A good selection of wires and a large sling can be placed, but few of the runners are really inspiring.
1 70' 6b A strenuous start leads up and R to a spike runner. Pull straight up to a small flake on the left which accepts further protection. Move up R to a good hold where the wall steepens, and a very long reach leads to an excellent hold and the ramp of Strike. Belay.
2 35' 6a Gain and climb the flake on the R. Follow a lichenous ramp leftwards, then go up to belay on the top of the flake..
3 50' 4c Finish as for the Rift.
R Fawcett, C Gibb 1978.
Barbarossa 170 feet E6 ***
Start L of Blackleg, directly below a line of pockets in the middle of the wall. A peg did/does? protrude at 25'.
1 120' 6b Climb up to the peg then technical moves lead slightly leftwards to regain the line of pockets. Follow these to a small overlap and continue in the same line to an old peg. Step R then go easily up to belay on the flake.
2 50' 4c As for the Rift.
J Moran, A Evans 1978. FFA J Redhead 1980.
Bloody Chimney 180 feet VS *
Takes the chimney up the L side of the huge pinnacle. Start below a crack at the foot of the slabby corner to the left of the pinnacle.
1 70' 4c Climb the crack and continue up the chimney to sloping ledge, and belay.
2 60' 4b climb the chimney to the top of the huge flake.
3 50' 4c Finish as for the Rift
D E Alcock, D Potts (alt) 1966.
Immediately left of Bloody Chimney is a large slab taken by Pantin and Puffin. This is bounded on the R by a steep wall which provides a number of harder routes ...
UFO 210 feet E2 *
Start at the bottom of the slabby corner as for Bloody Chimney.
1 100' 5b Climb the slabby corner until a thin crack in the right wall can be reached at 25'. Follow this (a little fragile) moving R then back L, and continue to a pinnacle, where a short decent R leads to a belay in Bloody Chimney.
2 110' 5b Return to the pinnacle and follow grooves and cracks to a ledge. Another crack, up L leads to a niche. Continue to the top.
L E Holliwell, F Quigley, L R Holliwell, 1967.
Pantin 220 feet VS
A worthwhile route starting as for Bloody Chimney at the foot of the slabby corner.
1 120' 4b Follow the corner for 30' then go diagonally leftwards across the slab to reach short cracks in the left wall. Climb these to a ledge and spike belay.
2 100' 4c Step down and traverse across the steep wall on the R to reach a big spike in the corner. Finish up the main groove above.
A Williams, B Royal, 1964.
Get the Stroll E3 5c
Run Fast, Run Free 120 feet E5 **
Originally E4 now been upgraded coz of loss of flakes (that what they always say). Start from a belay below the short cracks of Pantin.
1 120' 6a. Cross the slab to gain the foot of the crack on the R. Follow this trending L then up to an obvious pod. Continue past 2 PRs (?) then step R to gain the continuation crack which leads to the top.
D Knighton, J Girdly (2 rest pts), FFA W Todd or P O'Donovan 1980.
Canned Laughter E2 5c (1 pt)
Dangerous Rhythm E3 5c
Force 8 225 feet HVS
A good route taking the L edge of the Pantin Slab, and arête above. Start at the edge of the slab, L of Dangerous Rhythm.
1 140' 4c Climb up and R for 15', then back L to gain the arête at a small bulge. Follow the crack up the edge of the slab then take alight groove leading to the skyline. Step R and go up the crack to belay at the top block.
2 85' 5a Move down into a chimney and climb the crack in the back wall, which is actually the RH side of the flake. From the top of the crack step R across a steep wall and climb the groove by its L branch. Step R again to ledges and go up easy cracks to the top.
D Durkan, P Sandall, P Brown, 1970.
Puffin 210 feet S
L of Pantin is a subsidiary slab, the corner between the two being filled by a bulging flake of rock.
1 50' 4a The groove, on the L of the flake, is climbed to a belay on top of the flake.
2 80' 4b Cross rightwards for 10' and climb a short crack up onto the edge of the Pantin Slab. Climb rightwards to reach short cracks in the wall above, junction with Pantin. Take the cracks to gain a ledge and spike belay.
3 80' 3b Climb the obvious broken corner on the L.
R Edwards, J Fletcher, 1966.
Puffin Direct Start 60 feet HVS 5b
The crack 6' R of the normal start leads past a bulge to the stance on top of the flake.
R Edwards, J Hutchinson, 1967.
Campion HVS 5a
Hang Ten (in the Green Room) 180 feet E6 *
Climbs the blunt arête L of Puffin. Down and L of Puffin are some large blocks below a groove (Campion HVS). Start by a pinnacle up and L of these.
1 90' 6c Gain the top of the pinnacle and step on to the arête. Climb this on the R, past a PR to reach a second desperate slap to reach a good hold in a serious situation. Continue easily up the rib to a belay.
2 90' 4c Slabs and vegetated ledges lead to the top.
P Pritchard, C Waddy, 1988.
To the L of Hang Ten is an impressive orange-tinged wall taken by The Cruise. L again is the towering continuation of this wall, cleft by the striking fissure of Winking Crack.
The Cruise 210 feet E5 *
Excellent pro ensures popularity of this fine crack. Scramble up R from the path to a nut belay in a corner.
1 120' 6b Move L and climb the arête to a small ledge beneath the crack. Follow the crack, 2 PRs, to a shake out just short of the chimney above. Climb this to a ledge (medium friends protect this awkward section).
2 90' 4c Slabs and vegetated ledges lead to the top.
D Durkan, P Sandell 1970 (aid route The Nod), FFA J Moran, P Williams, J Sonczak 1984.
Noddy E2 5b (1 pt)
Winking Crack 220 feet E2 **
Takes the striking crackline in the towering wall. Scramble up 30' to a good ledge below a short wall.
1 100' 5a Move R and go up a short easy groove before moving L around the arête (start of The Cruise) to gain a corner up on the L. Climb this until a stance and block belay can be reached on the L.
2 120' 5c Climb the crack following the L branch where it divides, to small OH. Move L then step back R following cracks to the final offwidth.
J Brown, A Cowburn (6 pts) 1966.
Blue Oyster Cult E3
Blind Pew E2
The Emotionary E4 (lichenous)
Fifteen Men on a Dead Man's Chest 200 feet E4 *
Good climbing up pockets on the first pitch but a friable and serious second pitch. Scramble up to a ledge L of a short wall split by a crack, R of a corner.
1 80' 6a Move boldly L around the arête and go up to the first line of pockets. Continue in the same line with increasing difficulty until it is possible to move R to a ledge and pinnacle belay.
2 80' 5c From the top of the pinnacle climb the flaky crack until scary moves up and slightly R lead to a ledge.
3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.
M A Boysen, D E Alcock, D Jones (2 pts). FFA Unknown 1981.
The Horrorshow 200 feet E4 *
The excellent first pitch offers sustained, well protected climbing. Start with a 30' 4a scramble up a groove taking a belay beneath a corner (Crowbar).
1 80' 6a Climb the short crack in the R wall, then up R to a PR. Trend back L to another PR in the depths of a pocket. Follow the faint crackline to a PR high on the R, before a tricky move L gains a good hold above. Traverse R until moves up and R lead to a junction with Fifteen Men etc. in a corner on a sloping ledge.
2 80' 5b Climb the crack to the top of the pinnacle/flake, PR. Follow the flaky crack to a ledge.
3 40' 4c Climb a short groove on the R to a ledge, trend R up a short slab into a corner. Finish up the easy crack.
J Moran, A Evans, G Milburn (1 pt) 1978, FFA R Fawcett 1980.
Crowbar E1 (often damp)
The Grim Reaper E3 6a
The L edge of the bay is bounded by a huge pinnacle known as Shag Rock.
Black Spot 180 feet HVS
A fairly serious route taking the shallow grooves up the L side of the bay. Start just R of Shag Rock.
1 80' 5a Climb the short steep wall then move rightwards onto a ledge. Follow a crack to a second ledge and peg belay.
2 100' 4c Go up the ramp on the L to gain a scoop leading to the top.
L E and L R Holliwell 1967.
Bitter Days E1
Shag Rock 80 feet HVS
Climbs the pinnacle starting inside the chimney behind, near its R side.
1. 80' 5a Chimney up and pull up to a ledge on the arête. Climb this and take the last bit on the inside face, PR, with interesting moves to reach the summit. Descend by abseil.
M A Boysen, B Ingle 1964.
Shagorado E3 5c spirals up Shag Rock.
L of the Shag Rock pinnacle is the very popular Central Park wall. L of centre is the stunning thin crack of The Strand.
Fifth Avenue 150 feet E1 *
Takes the groove up the R edge of the Central Park Wall. Start in the chimney formed by the L edge of the Shag Rock pinnacle.
1 130' Chimney up until it is possible to to pull boldly into the groove running up and leftwards. Follow the groove over 2 bulges to a stance and peg belay.
2 20' Climb the short wall above to the top. Scramble to belay at the back wall of the slope above.
M A Boysen, M Yates 1966.
Tequila Sunrise E2 5c
Times Square 160 feet HVS *
A direct line up the wall L of Fifth Avenue. Find a belay just above the short rocky traverse on the path and beneath a shallow groove.
1 130' 5a Keeping L, climb to the top of the grassy groove and move R to boldly climb some thin cracks. Climb a R trending groove above to a peg belay at the top of the groove on Fifth Avenue.
2 30' 5a Go L from the belay and climb a series of flakes to a finish near the toop of Central Park. Belay here or, better, well up the slope above.
F E R Cannings, D G Peers 1967. Pitch 2 F Cannings, T Lewis, 1969.
Street Survivor 175 feet E2
Start directly below the final crack of Central Park.
1 80' 4c Climb the wall and crack which leads directly up to the stance on Central Park.
2 95' 5c Move up the top crack of Central Park for a few moves then move L (awkward) to gain flakes out the wall, which are followed to a PR. The steep shallow groove above leads to the top. Belay way back.
D Knighton, J Tout 1978.
Central Park 200 feet HVS **
Takes the obvious wide crack in the upper RH side of the wall. Start in the small niche on the L of the short rock traverse on the path.
1 100' 4c Climb the slabby wall on the L to reach a shallow groove. This leads to a ledge on the L. Move up R then take the obvious L trending line and steep groove to a wall. Go up this to an old PR below an overhung niche. Traverse R to belay beneath the wide crack.
2 100' 5a Climb the crack past a couple of tricky moves near the top to reach a ledge in niche. A belay can be set up here. Scramble up steps in the steep grass above to reach easy ground.
P Crew, D Alcock (alt, 10 pts) 1966.
Manor Park 190 feet E3 *
An intimidating first pitch and enjoyable second pitch. The crux is easier for tall climbers.
1 100' 5b Follow Central Park for 50' until it is possible to move R and climb a thin crack direct to the Central Park belay.
2 90' 6a Follow the obvious diagonal thin crack out L to a PR at 30'. Continue L to another PR at 80' and climb to the top with difficulty.
J Moran, D Knighton, A Evans 1978.
Hyde Park E4
The Strand 160 feet E2 ***
Well protected sustained climbing up the striking crack on the brushed wall. Low in the grade. Start below, and a couple of metres L, of the crack.
1 140' 5a Climb up rightwards to reach the crack. Climb it to a peg belay below a short slab.
2 20' 4b Climb the broken slab above then follow steps up the steep grass to belay at the far back of the wall.
E Drummond (1 pt) 1967.
Park Lane/Doomsville 180 feet E1 **
Start as for the Strand.
1 90' 5b Climb diagonally up R to the crack of The Strand. Follow a line of holds L to the bulge. Move L and up, then back R into the crack and continue to good PBs and a stance at the top of the flake.
2 70' Climb the narrow ramp on the R with difficulty (PR), then a short crack to a PB on the broken slab at the top of The Strand.
3 20' 4b As for the Strand pitch 2.
L E and L R Holliwell (pitch 1), A G Cram, M Yates, J Yates (pitch 2) 1967.
Park Lane E1
Mayfair
Doomsville
Broadway
Transatlantic Crossing
The following routes start from the steep vegetated amphitheatre up and L of the Central Park Wall. It's difficult to get to so not popular.
Gladiator HVS 5a
Kira His E4 6a
Amphitheatre Wall HVS 4c
Mill Street Junction E1 5b
The Cracks HVS 5a
Staying Alive E4 6a
Moving L from where the amphitheatre ends, the crag steepens and becomes more continuous. The broken grassy ramp running along the base gradually rises until it eventually sweeps up to divide the Upper Tier from the Main Cliff just beyond the corner of Bezel.
Ceilidh E2 5c
Mondo Hard E4 6a
Yellow Scar E1 5b
Hurricane E2 5c
The Gauntlet 165 feet HVS **
Start in a shallow groove directly below the crack/groove line L of the huge, yellow, rock fall scar.
1 70' 5a Climb the groove (PR) and over the bulge (crux) to better holds. Continue up until it is possible to move R up teh steep wall to a small stance and PB.
2 70' 4b Up the groove on the L for 30', then R into another groove which leads to a PB on the R.
3 70' 4b Traverse L to finish up the steep corner crack. Belay well back.
P Crew, B Ingle (alt) 1964.
Ziggurat E3 6a
The Ramp 180 feet HVS **
Takes the steep grey ramp up the wall L of the Gauntlet. Start at a pinnacle below the ramp.
1 100' 5a Climb the pinnacle then step R to a ledge (can be hazardous during nesting season!). Up the corner (PR at 20') then climb the slab to some spikes on the L. Pass the bulge in the corner (crux) and continue to a large spike at the top of the ramp. Traverse easily L to belay below a steep corner.
2 80' 4c Climb to the top of the crack in the corner. Make a blind move R into a bottomless chimney (airy and tricky) and up this more easily to finish.
P Crew, J Baldcock 1966
Energy Crisis 190 feet E4 *
A strenuous route with a fine sustained first pitch. Start beneath the RH of two wide cracks a little L of The Ramp.
1 90' 6a Climb the crack direct to belay on The Ramp.
2 100' 5b From the RH end on the ledge go R into a bottomless groove. Go up and step L to a thin crack. This leads to a slabby groove on the L which is followed to the top.
P Whillance, D Armstrong 1978.
Afreet Street 170 feet E4
Start beneath the LH of two wide cracks a little L of The Ramp.
1 90' 6a Climb narrow slabs until it is possible to enter the crack on the R. Climb this to the stance on The Ramp.
2 80' Climb shallow cracks above, finishing up chimney.
E Drummond 1969 (4pts), FFA R Fawcett 1980
Fail Safe 170 feet E2 *
Takes the wall L of Afreet Street. Powerful climbing with some long reaches and a difficult exit from the top of the first pitch. Protection is adequate but not generous. Start beneath the LH of two wide cracks a little L of The Ramp.
1 90' 5b Climb narrow slabs, past a quartz spike, to reach the OH. Move R (hard) and climb small ledges to gain the belay on The Ramp.
2 80' 5a Finish up The Ramp pitch 2.
D Alcock, P Crew (alt) 1966.
The Eternal Optimist 150 feet E2 *
A good route on reasonable holds which takes the steep corner crack running up to an OH above the foot of the slab which defines the L end of the Upper Tier. Start beneath the crack.
1 120' 5b Steeply up the lower wall to the base of the crack. Climb this using large holds on the L wall and make a tricky move over the OH. Continue more easily to a good ledge on the L.
2 30' 4b Finish up the crack just L of the belay.
A Sharp, S Humphries 1975
Cartwheel E2 5b
Bezel 160 feet VS *
Start at the end of the path at the foot of a curving groove a few feet L of the Eternal Optimist.
1 50' 4b Climb a small pinnacle on the L to reach a diagonal crack in the slab up R. Cross the slab on the L and up to a small ledge below the groove - PBs.
2 80' 5a Surmount the bulge and follow the groove above until it is possible to move R to a stance.
3 30' 4b Finish up a short crack on the L to the top.
B Ingle, P Crew 1964
Slow Dancer E1 5a
Sulcus 140 feet VS
Follow the obvious crack in the arête L of Bezel. Start from the pinnacle of Bezel.
1 140' 5a Follow the crack as far as the OH and move L around it into a niche. Step L then go up to spike belays. Finish up broken ground.
R Holliwell, J Fitzgerald 1969.